Taj

Woke up this morning @ 5 to to prepare for our 4 hour drive south to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Vinod arrived at 6, before light but after picking up Himanshu (he-MAN-shoe) and Deepak (from weekend 1). I wish Himanshu a happy birthday (he's 25 today) as we exit ATS. Traffic was light in these early hours so we made god time. We stopped for breakfast in Kosi (roughly half way), but when we got inside we decided we weren't really that hungry for food (just Taj) and only got snacks (ketchup flavored chips and tea biscuits) in order to get on the road.
The drive itself was very pleasant. After seeing only city for 3 weeks it was great to see some villages and green fields. I slept a little on the way but woke up as we entered Agra. Agra has a different feel that Delhi. Maybe it was just the drive but it had the feel of a more tourist place, like the beach. Kinda trashy, but full of life.
On the way we have decided to take a guide and Vinod stops to pick one up for us then drops the 4 of us off at a traffic circle. Apparently there is a short walk to the Taj Mahal gate. The guide recommends we get a rickshaw, but we choose to walk. It's only 5 minutes. The walk is nice but the beggars, children selling key chains ("look taj mahal keychain - it is both big and small!") and men selling whips (why whips?) are out in extreme force. The line to get in the gate is long, so Deepak recommends going to another gate. The guide is reluctant, saying that this is the only entrance, and I later learn that he was trying to get us to pay extra to get through security faster. The guide winds us up a stairway and thru an alley to get us to the other gate and there is no problem at all, and the line is indeed much shorter. so it was a complete scam. We quickly discover that taking us for a few extra bucks is the order of the day for this guide.
We enter quickly ponder the outer area and get a very brief history (Taj built by Shah Jahan as he mourned the death of his wife ) from our "guide" before proceeding through the inner gate that frames our first view of the Taj Mahal.

Expectations are pretty high for the Taj. I don't know how anything could be more highly rated. Did it take my breath away? Not exactly. I'm so terrible with expectations. It's not disappointing at all - but it's not spiritual either. It is a amazingly beautiful building, and the most spectacular thing I've seen here, both at a high level and in its delicately placed details. I've now been told by about 15 people that Taj is a romantic place to be visited with a woman, and I think there is something to that. The simplicity and purity of its design coupled with the sense of permanence echoes an idealized loved. Unfortunately, Jen is 10 thousand miles away and I'm here with 2 dudes. Also unfortunate is that the waterways and pools , which usually reflect the white structure, have all been drained. bummer.



We snap photos, and the guide does one useful thing and takes photos of the 3 of us as well as stock silly shots of me. On approach, the scale of the place really becomes apparent, and you can begin to see the inlay work and detailed carvings, which are really awesome. The guide is shuffling us thru a bit. He shows Deepak and Himanshu to the shoe check. I get booties with my entry fee ($20!). Natives get in for $1, but no shoe covers. And we head up the stairs.
Coming onto the marble platform that supports the central tomb and the 4 tower the wow factor really kicks in. I'M AT THE TAJ MAHAL!!!!
We circle clockwise around the tomb, spend time looking over the Yumana river to the site of the planned "Black Taj"(would have been AWESOME- too bad his son imprisoned him to prevent it), as well as looking from a distance at the guest house and mosque that flank the main structure on either side. We go into the tomb, where the inlay work is spectacular. When I come out the of glare off the marble is BLINDING. Happy to have my sunglasses (or gogs as they call them here).
As we exit, turning back every 20 paces for another view the guide asks me about shopping. I think he senses blood in the water and is ready to take me to some preferred establishments where he gets a cut. As we walk back to the gate we hit a few small shops but the hawkers are horrible. Literally 8 people talking to me at the same time trying to sell me stuff. The guide pushes me into 2 shops in which i have no interest. I buy a few cheap trinkets and we wind our way back through the alley, back to the main gate, where the line has gotten even worse. We stroll up the short path to were Vinod is waiting. Once we get in the car it turns out the guide is not staying with us and is only for the one stop. I feel pretty ripped off, but i'm glad to be rid of him. We head to a resturant "Indiana" and enjoy a fine meal. I think that we have Vinod convinced to eat with us, but he doesn't enter behind us and Himanshu goes out to discover that he is eating in the "drivers area". groan. at least i get to pay for his food. Over the meal we decide on Fetehpur Sikri as our second destination. Agra Fort was considered, but apparently much of it is closed.

It's a 45 minute drive through the country and surrounding villages to the site. From the dusty, eucalyptus lined roads we see see beautiful green fields, some local markets, mud huts, piles of dried cow poo (they burn it to cook over!) and some of the best sign painting i've seen yet. Much better than Delhi. Good conversation too- lots of ridiculousness.



The hawkers at Fatehpur Sikri pick up where those at the Taj left off. We immediately have 5 people trying to give us a ride up to the fort and another 5 wanting to be our guide. We decline the guides, but the ride in is almost mile, so we bite on that. Himanshu has been to the site recently so he is our acting guide.
Fatehpur Sikri is a city built in the 16th century by Mughal emperor (and possibly Admiral) Akbar. But was quickly abandoned after his death since it was plagued by a poor water supply. It's easy to imagine the everyday doings in the palace, which is extremely well preserved. We first explore the mosque, Jama Masjid (same name as in Delhi) with its large gates, giant courtyard and inner tombs. Himanshu decides he doesn't remember things that well and we do get a kid (probably 13, 15 max) to show us around. We see the entrance to the tunnel that leads back to Agra (40KM!), many graves, and the main gate, which is infested with bees. I continue to be impressed both by the inlay work and carved stone screens. They find so many interesting patterns, and i took a picture of practically every one. Himanshu makes a wish by typing a string to one of the screens. Appropriate for a birthday.

We leave the mosque and head for the 25 buildings of the palace. we get a guide right away. But there are less people and less hawkers here thankfully. There are buildings for each of the 3 wives (one christian, one hindu, one muslim- very pc), a palace for his right hand adviser, a summer palace, a winter palace, a dream palace, a dream interpreting room, a powder room and a hall for holding court. All looking really perfectly preserved. Awesome. I take a million pics of all the red sandstone structures as our guide takes us on a smart route. Soon we are back at the entrance. We hop another auto rickshaw back to the car and then head back towards Agra.


I've been told I have to try pethas form Agra, so we head to shop that is supposedly the best around. It turns out that Pethas is super sweet candy with a fruit like consistency. It feels extremely natural when you eat it. I read online that it's made with pumpkin. cool. I buy some to bring back, so ask me if you wanna try it. Next we then stop for beers to celebrate humanchys Birthday. Beers in the car-NICE! We toast Himanshu , Vinod and the Taj Mahal. End up getting loose, telling stories etc. Good times.
We are getting away pretty early so Himanshu invites us back to his house (lives with family, as is common) for a little cake celebration. We (even Vinod comes in!) get there at 10 and spend an hour with his father, grandfather mom and 2 sisters snacking, doing the traditional face smear and having a few drinks. I try some indian rum- not bad. Not as "rummy" as ours. Women mostly stay in the kitchen. The grandfther is a trip. He immigrated from Pakistan in '47 and @ 83 is still working. Quite a character. All seem very proud of Himanshu. Again the hospitality was over the top. the kings welcome really is very humbling. We leave at 11- drop off Deepak- he tells me his plan is to keep partying- ahh the young. i head home. WHEW.
BED

anyone still reading? LONGEST POST EVER. a nice companion to the 491 pictures i took today. no restraint, sorry.