Thursday, February 28, 2008

Finally

Home.
Some delays and missed flights, but there is nothing like being "the place i belong". that was supposed to sort of be a john denver quote. maybe not successful.
Anyways- still a few more post trip posts to come.
But i'm home safe and sound!

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

PACKED

everything is in bags.
can't wait to get home
hoping i'm under 50lbs for my big bag (doubtful).

Suit Completed

As you may remember I was fitted for a suit earlier in my stay. I don't know how much you can tell from these photos (best I could do with a self timer, sorry), but it turned out pretty spiffy. Thank you Bedi from Vedi. Now I have 2 suits to my name!

I went shopping at...

Le Big Mac = Chicken Maharaja Mac

Got take away tonight. I had the McChicken Burger.
Also on the menu:
  • McVeggie Burger (No beef on the menu!)
  • Standard Filet-o-fish
  • Paneer Salsa Wrap
  • Chicken Mexican Wrap
  • The "Happy Price Menu" that has small things for roughly 50 cents.
  • And of course FRIES. which are pretty much the same as home: Fantastic until they are cold and then have a half life of about 10,000 years.
The menu i found online is different than the one i saw, but has A LOT more variety, including the "Veg Pizza McPuff", which has to be fantastic.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Crisis Averted!!!

No airline strike!
Will depart Wednesday night as planned.
So relieved.

how is this possible?

Jen tells me that last weekend she saw a Colbert Report that featured the Bollywood movie clip i posted last week. How is this possible. happenings like this really make me want to reconsider Jungian collective unconscious. Unless.....

Stephen - if you're out there, and you are reading my blog, please give us a sign.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

What happened?!?!?!

Weekend In Tijuana

Could have been the Domino's (which has caused me problems before), a packaged "Koolfi" I got from a street vendor at Lodi gardens, or nuts from Himanshu's birthday party (can't resist pistachios). Regardless, I'm popping Immodium as soon as I finish typing this.
Just woke up so it could a be a looooong day.

Sunday afternoon on the pitch

Finally starting to get the hang of cricket. It's been a lot harder than i thought it would be. Wikipedia isn't exactly crystal clear on this one, though in this case getting all the details in a succinct manner is a tall order. It's got more rules than Canasta.
Today I watched pieces of 3 matches. India, Sri Lanka and Australia are currently doing this big 30 day tourney in Sydney. Ah Sydney... These are all day matches and are on a few times a week. People go up to the cafeteria to watch during the work day if it's close. So today it was India and Australia, who is leading the tourney. Australia extended their tourney lead by winning this one as well. Check out the box score. Pretty intense. I still have no idea what a close game is, but i was starting to get some sense of excitement as the end of the inning neared. I could imagine getting into it eventually, though the length of the matches is earthshattering. what a commitment.

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Taj

Woke up this morning @ 5 to to prepare for our 4 hour drive south to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Vinod arrived at 6, before light but after picking up Himanshu (he-MAN-shoe) and Deepak (from weekend 1). I wish Himanshu a happy birthday (he's 25 today) as we exit ATS. Traffic was light in these early hours so we made god time. We stopped for breakfast in Kosi (roughly half way), but when we got inside we decided we weren't really that hungry for food (just Taj) and only got snacks (ketchup flavored chips and tea biscuits) in order to get on the road.
The drive itself was very pleasant. After seeing only city for 3 weeks it was great to see some villages and green fields. I slept a little on the way but woke up as we entered Agra. Agra has a different feel that Delhi. Maybe it was just the drive but it had the feel of a more tourist place, like the beach. Kinda trashy, but full of life.
On the way we have decided to take a guide and Vinod stops to pick one up for us then drops the 4 of us off at a traffic circle. Apparently there is a short walk to the Taj Mahal gate. The guide recommends we get a rickshaw, but we choose to walk. It's only 5 minutes. The walk is nice but the beggars, children selling key chains ("look taj mahal keychain - it is both big and small!") and men selling whips (why whips?) are out in extreme force. The line to get in the gate is long, so Deepak recommends going to another gate. The guide is reluctant, saying that this is the only entrance, and I later learn that he was trying to get us to pay extra to get through security faster. The guide winds us up a stairway and thru an alley to get us to the other gate and there is no problem at all, and the line is indeed much shorter. so it was a complete scam. We quickly discover that taking us for a few extra bucks is the order of the day for this guide.
We enter quickly ponder the outer area and get a very brief history (Taj built by Shah Jahan as he mourned the death of his wife ) from our "guide" before proceeding through the inner gate that frames our first view of the Taj Mahal.

Expectations are pretty high for the Taj. I don't know how anything could be more highly rated. Did it take my breath away? Not exactly. I'm so terrible with expectations. It's not disappointing at all - but it's not spiritual either. It is a amazingly beautiful building, and the most spectacular thing I've seen here, both at a high level and in its delicately placed details. I've now been told by about 15 people that Taj is a romantic place to be visited with a woman, and I think there is something to that. The simplicity and purity of its design coupled with the sense of permanence echoes an idealized loved. Unfortunately, Jen is 10 thousand miles away and I'm here with 2 dudes. Also unfortunate is that the waterways and pools , which usually reflect the white structure, have all been drained. bummer.



We snap photos, and the guide does one useful thing and takes photos of the 3 of us as well as stock silly shots of me. On approach, the scale of the place really becomes apparent, and you can begin to see the inlay work and detailed carvings, which are really awesome. The guide is shuffling us thru a bit. He shows Deepak and Himanshu to the shoe check. I get booties with my entry fee ($20!). Natives get in for $1, but no shoe covers. And we head up the stairs.
Coming onto the marble platform that supports the central tomb and the 4 tower the wow factor really kicks in. I'M AT THE TAJ MAHAL!!!!
We circle clockwise around the tomb, spend time looking over the Yumana river to the site of the planned "Black Taj"(would have been AWESOME- too bad his son imprisoned him to prevent it), as well as looking from a distance at the guest house and mosque that flank the main structure on either side. We go into the tomb, where the inlay work is spectacular. When I come out the of glare off the marble is BLINDING. Happy to have my sunglasses (or gogs as they call them here).
As we exit, turning back every 20 paces for another view the guide asks me about shopping. I think he senses blood in the water and is ready to take me to some preferred establishments where he gets a cut. As we walk back to the gate we hit a few small shops but the hawkers are horrible. Literally 8 people talking to me at the same time trying to sell me stuff. The guide pushes me into 2 shops in which i have no interest. I buy a few cheap trinkets and we wind our way back through the alley, back to the main gate, where the line has gotten even worse. We stroll up the short path to were Vinod is waiting. Once we get in the car it turns out the guide is not staying with us and is only for the one stop. I feel pretty ripped off, but i'm glad to be rid of him. We head to a resturant "Indiana" and enjoy a fine meal. I think that we have Vinod convinced to eat with us, but he doesn't enter behind us and Himanshu goes out to discover that he is eating in the "drivers area". groan. at least i get to pay for his food. Over the meal we decide on Fetehpur Sikri as our second destination. Agra Fort was considered, but apparently much of it is closed.

It's a 45 minute drive through the country and surrounding villages to the site. From the dusty, eucalyptus lined roads we see see beautiful green fields, some local markets, mud huts, piles of dried cow poo (they burn it to cook over!) and some of the best sign painting i've seen yet. Much better than Delhi. Good conversation too- lots of ridiculousness.



The hawkers at Fatehpur Sikri pick up where those at the Taj left off. We immediately have 5 people trying to give us a ride up to the fort and another 5 wanting to be our guide. We decline the guides, but the ride in is almost mile, so we bite on that. Himanshu has been to the site recently so he is our acting guide.
Fatehpur Sikri is a city built in the 16th century by Mughal emperor (and possibly Admiral) Akbar. But was quickly abandoned after his death since it was plagued by a poor water supply. It's easy to imagine the everyday doings in the palace, which is extremely well preserved. We first explore the mosque, Jama Masjid (same name as in Delhi) with its large gates, giant courtyard and inner tombs. Himanshu decides he doesn't remember things that well and we do get a kid (probably 13, 15 max) to show us around. We see the entrance to the tunnel that leads back to Agra (40KM!), many graves, and the main gate, which is infested with bees. I continue to be impressed both by the inlay work and carved stone screens. They find so many interesting patterns, and i took a picture of practically every one. Himanshu makes a wish by typing a string to one of the screens. Appropriate for a birthday.

We leave the mosque and head for the 25 buildings of the palace. we get a guide right away. But there are less people and less hawkers here thankfully. There are buildings for each of the 3 wives (one christian, one hindu, one muslim- very pc), a palace for his right hand adviser, a summer palace, a winter palace, a dream palace, a dream interpreting room, a powder room and a hall for holding court. All looking really perfectly preserved. Awesome. I take a million pics of all the red sandstone structures as our guide takes us on a smart route. Soon we are back at the entrance. We hop another auto rickshaw back to the car and then head back towards Agra.


I've been told I have to try pethas form Agra, so we head to shop that is supposedly the best around. It turns out that Pethas is super sweet candy with a fruit like consistency. It feels extremely natural when you eat it. I read online that it's made with pumpkin. cool. I buy some to bring back, so ask me if you wanna try it. Next we then stop for beers to celebrate humanchys Birthday. Beers in the car-NICE! We toast Himanshu , Vinod and the Taj Mahal. End up getting loose, telling stories etc. Good times.
We are getting away pretty early so Himanshu invites us back to his house (lives with family, as is common) for a little cake celebration. We (even Vinod comes in!) get there at 10 and spend an hour with his father, grandfather mom and 2 sisters snacking, doing the traditional face smear and having a few drinks. I try some indian rum- not bad. Not as "rummy" as ours. Women mostly stay in the kitchen. The grandfther is a trip. He immigrated from Pakistan in '47 and @ 83 is still working. Quite a character. All seem very proud of Himanshu. Again the hospitality was over the top. the kings welcome really is very humbling. We leave at 11- drop off Deepak- he tells me his plan is to keep partying- ahh the young. i head home. WHEW.
BED

anyone still reading? LONGEST POST EVER. a nice companion to the 491 pictures i took today. no restraint, sorry.

Friday, February 22, 2008

New Shoes

As you may be aware, for me, traveling and shoe shopping go hand in hand. Last night I found some.


A steal @ 1495 ($37). I figure they have sort of an Indian flair.
And when i got them home, i made a startling discovery:
Safe for work?

Today on the radio

There was a commercial recruiting Mary Kay reps.
I wonder if the top sellers get a pink rickshaw or something.

Agents of SHEILD

The security here at ATS greens is really over the top.
There are 10 guys at the main gate, often one with a huge elephant gun looking rifle (never know when you'll need to stop one i guess), 4 or five at the back gate and then one at least one at every building. It's a little concerning that they believe they need that much security, but according to the people we're talked to about it this part of town can be a little rough. The phrase "Don't go out at night" has come from multiple sources. So i guess I'm glad they are there.
Every time Vinod drops me off they make him get out of the car and do something to get a temporary permit to drive in. Hassled by the man, even in NOIDA. Well i say every time, but the night staff can be a little slack and just let us drive in. And they are never in a good mood. Maybe I expect too much. Tonight it appeared the entire squad were near the gate in formation with rifles on their shoulders and everything, but just a bit disorganized. It looked like the town militia was assembling. No idea if they were going to march around or execute a trespasser via firing squad or what. It was dark and i was a little slow on the draw, so no picture unfortunately.

Weekend 2 in Delhi Pt 2

On Sunday I continued to explore Delhi. Vinod picked me up @ 11:30 and we headed for the Mughal Gardens, which adjoins the presidential estate in central Delhi and open only a few weekends a year. We drove around a bit, through the former hunting preserve that adjoins the gardens, trying to find the entrance. Eventually we found it by following the crowd. There were a huge number of people in line to get in, and i was going to have to check my phone and camera. The security line seemed to be moving pretty slow, so i bagged it and called in Vinod for the speedy getaway. We headed for Jantar Mantar, and set of large scale astronomical instruments used for things like time and date calculations and tracking the sun and moon. Unprompted, a guide chatted me up at the beginning and walked me through how each of the instruments worked. Of course he wanted a ridiculous tip at the end. But a cool place. One of the instruments looked like the MCP from Tron. My mom would be happy about all the math, some of which the guide did for me. Great pictures too. Hard to choose ones to post. Check out the carved in numbers for measuring the shadows.



Where to go next was kind of tough. I really had planned on those 2 places being most of my day. The one area I had hoped to visit, but hadn't even driven through, was Old Delhi (not really THAT old, dates to the 17th century). So that's where we headed. I had Vinod drop me off in front of the MASSIVE Red Fort. Also massive were the entry lines. Apparently Sunday is not the day to do anything. I wasn't too worried, I had heard mixed reviews on the interior of the fort and with Agra next weekend I'll get enough of that sort of thing. So then i head for the crowds of the adjoining market areas of Chani Chowk. I wander the streets and alleys where people are selling amazing smelling (sadly no eating after that morning) fried food, plastic toys, cheap clothes, chickens, fish (cleaned on the spot), shoes, spices, nutz, CDs playing from ratty speakers, carpets, electronics and whatever else. I looked at shirts but didn't buy any (most here just a dollar or 2). One i seriously considered, which was wrapped in plastic and tagged as if new had ink and coffee stains and well as a small hole. So i just decided not to waste much time with it. Took a few minutes to watch kids playing cricket in what looked like a giant drained fountain. I'm still working on the rules even after having it explained to me a few times.
Going through the markets was a little stressful. Wallet was around my neck but I felt like i had to keep my camera and cell phone in check. I loosened up a little by the end, but so much of the time it was just incredibly packed. But i was glad to get to do a little bit of the not completely for tourists side of town (even though doing what i did is TOTALLY recommended by a lot of guide books, but whatever- i really only saw a handful of tourists as i walked through the markets). I followed the markets right to the steps of Jama Masid, the largest Mosque in Delhi.



I climbed its stairs, removed my shoes and entered one of the gates into the fortified courtyard. Spend a few minutes poking around, watching the birds, taking pictures of the onion shaped domes. Then i pay r50 to climb one of the towers for a aerial view of the mosque and the city. You leave your shoes (already removed, but i was carrying) at the base of the tower, which i didn't understand at first. But the spiral stairs up the tower are extremely tight (it's belly against the wall to pass people coming down) and the observation area at the top is really not designed for 15 people. the danger of tripping and falling back down the steep spiral stairs seemed very very real. But the view from the top was cool. Delhi is pretty flat, so i couldn't do much in the way of making out landmarks save for the nearby Red Fort, but it was still a good view. By this time it is 3:45 and i am supposed to meet Vinod back at Red Fort at 4. Sunday is his night off, so he said we should be back at the guest house by 5. I take a different route back and get a little nervous that i am lost, but it turns out ok. I call vinod at 4 and we hit the road.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Begin the countdown

T-1 week

some normalcy sounds amazing right now
and missing my ladies something fierce

Full Recovery

The Reg

Just thought you'd want to know.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Trucks

Pretty much every truck here is hand painted and some are decorated with flags or tinsel, which i think is amazing. I'm snapping pictures whenever i get chance.
Common themes are horn blowing (a courtesy here) and cows/calves.